Shaker Nightstand Online Class

Shaker Nightstand


I spent some time over the summer shooting a video class on building a Shaker style Nightstand (or side table) with the folks from Craftsy. The class is now up and running on their site.

This is a class on using hand tools to do the joinery and shaping on the table. I cover jointing and gluing up a top, and then flattening it by hand. I talk about hand chopping the mortises, sawing the tenons, and then fitting the joints properly. Also covered is shaping the bevel on the underside of the top and tapering the legs with hand planes, cutting table buttons and mortising the aprons for the slots so the buttons can attach the top, and assembly and finishing techniques. Underside of Table

The table itself is incredibly versatile. I think we have eight or ten of them (with some variations) in various places around our house. They work next to traditional as well as contemporary pieces. And although the design is so subtle as to be spare, done well, the piece has a lot of impact.


Click here to get $10 off on this class!  










Act NOW to be included in FORP II

French Oak Roubo Project Leg ViseRegistration is now open for the French Oak Roubo Project part 2, taking place in Barnesville, GA, November 8 – 14, 2015. This is a truly unique opportunity to take part in a very well-supported build of an extraordinary bench. Leading the build will be Chris Schwarz, Jameel Abraham, Don Williams,  Raney Nelson, Ron Breese, Jon Fiant, Will Myers, and me. We’ll be hosted by Bo Childs, and working at his amazing facility.

Full details at the Benchcrafted website. Don’t think too long about this. It will probably be sold out within hours.

Port Townsend and the Jig of the Week

Port Townsend School of Woodworking nightstandsI just got back from my week of teaching at the Port Townsend School of Woodworking. The class was on building a  frame and panel nightstand (or side table), with haunched mortise and tenon joinery (and half-blind dovetails for the upper stretchers), all of which was cut by hand. In other words, this was a seriously ambitious project for a 5-day class. But also a project that really put into practice the fundamentals of solid wood case construction.

The killer day was Wednesday, which was when we cut and fit all of the tenons to the mortises. It was a long, hard day, but that really put us on the path to completion on Friday. One of the things that helped get everyone through the process was a dead-simple jig.

The walnut block aligns the grooves in the leg and the rail.

The walnut block aligns the grooves in the leg and the rail.

Using the tool

Keeping the walnut block in place and moving the rail back out of the way, I mark out the location of the mortise at the bottom of the groove.

The “jig of the week” was a simple 3/8” by 1 ¼” by 3” block that fit into the grooves for the panel in the legs, the rails, and for the case bottom. This helped with mortise layout and was invaluable in fitting the tenons to the mortises (you could easily tell where to remove wood from the tenon to keep the grooves aligned by sliding this stick out along the tenon while still in the groove in the rail).

"Tool of the Week" in use

The walnut stick shows how much wood needs to be removed from the tenon for perfect alignment of the groove with the groove in the leg.

I’m not sure that this is something that would be as helpful in different situations, but here, where the legs and rails were not aligned flush but the grooves needed to be, it was something everyone used over and over. And everyone’s grooves lined up perfectly.

Port Townsend School of Woodworking Nightstand Class

Nightstand Assembly


Assembling the nightstand

Fitting the nightstand bottom

Handworks 2015!

Handworks BannerIt will be hard to wait for this one. Handworks, THE hand tool event to attend, is returning next May to Amana, Iowa. Last year’s Handworks was amazing; almost all of the important hand tool makers, along with a variety of hand tool teachers, authors, purveyors of antique tools, and more, gathered in the Festhalle Barn in Amana for two days of hand-tool heaven. Next year offers an expanded roster of makers, and an entire additional barn’s worth of green woodworking specialists, blacksmiths, and more. Oh. And Roy Underhill. And nearby, in Cedar City Iowa, an exclusive exhibit of the Studley Tool Chest and Workbench.

Plan to be there.


Completed French Oak Roubo Project Bench

French Oak Roubo Project Leg ViseIt’s been only 8 months since a group of us got together in Barnesville, Georgia to build reasonably close replicas of the workbench described and illustrated in A.J. Roubo’s L’Art du Menusier. And I can finally report that my bench is now complete. It would have been finished much sooner, but… well, there were lots of reasons. I did decide that I wanted a tail vise (a wagon vise, actually), and I needed to design it as a suitable complement to the massive leg vise with a vise screw from Lake Erie Toolworks and ironwork from Peter Ross. French Oak Roubo Project Bench; tail viseI went back to both of these craftsmen and had Nick at Lake Erie make a somewhat smaller (2” diameter, 3 ½ tpi, reverse threaded) vise screw and traveling dog block, and commissioned Peter to forge a smaller ring and handle. After a little bit of fitting my sliding dog block to the bench, I’ve gotten the wagon-style vise to work perfectly.

The reverse threading on the vise screw means that with clockwise rotation of the handle, the dog block travels away from the end of the bench and tightens against whatever you’re clamping on the bench-top,

Underside of Wagon Vise

Underside of Wagon Vise

Thanks to Jameel at Benchcrafted for pointing this out before I ordered the screw! I devised a hidden garter to secure the vise screw in place; it bolts on from the inside of the end-cap and is completely hidden under the end of the vise hub.

Other details: I’ve set too much of a precedent to not use hounds-tooth dovetails on the end cap of the bench. This now makes four benches with that detail (I think I can stop now). I also shortened up the vise handle for the leg vise. I felt that it was a little long in use, and then I noticed that on Roubo’s Plate 11 it seemed much shorter than what I had, so I went ahead and cut it down.

The bench functions beautifully, and looks great. It’s exciting to add this to my collection of great benches. Will it stay perfectly flat? Probably not. But I’ll just flatten it again when it needs it.  I’ll have more information after another couple changes of season.


Workbench BaseNow that I’ve got yet another killer bench, I’ve actually got some spare bench stuff available for sale. I made rock-solid a trestle-style workbench base out of ash a couple of years back. The base is 28” by 59” and 33” high. It bolts together, and is easy to transport. No top. $250


Garrett Wade Bench


I also have a bench that I purchased from Garrett Wade many years ago. The vise is a little wonky, but the bench 16¼” by 53” by 34¾” high) is in decent shape. Base also unbolts for easier transport. $150

I’ve also got what is essentially a butcher block top with two Jorgenson vises on it, with a row of ¾”dog holes drilled in it. 30” by 60” by 1¾” thick). (not pictured) $425

The Hidden Agenda

I have a few classes coming up that offer interesting opportunities to learn some of the less commonly taught skills.

The Slat-Back Chairs from J. Miller Handcrafted FurniturApril 21st through 26th in my shop, I’ll be teaching how to make  my slat-back chair. This is both a chair basics class and a class in some really sophisticated techniques. And it’s all very do-able. You’ll learn about cutting and smoothing curves, and also about lamination as a way to make exceptionally strong, thin curved components. The joinery on this chair covers what you’d need for almost any other joined chair; and I’m excited to be able to show off all kinds of methods for making even the most complex mortise and tenon joints simple. Chairs have been my focus for the last 30 years, and this is a chance to tap into the insights, techniques and tricks that I’ve learned.

Stool/Table for the Wortheffort Woodworking School ClassOn May 9th – 11th, I’ll be at the Wortheffort School of Woodworking in San Marcos, Texas. The project here is a small stool or table (it works and looks good either way). This is an opportunity to master hand-cut mortise and tenon joinery, and there are a few dovetails thrown in just for fun. Mortise and tenon joinery is the backbone of all woodworking; it’s the best joint for joining parts in most furniture projects. But it somehow gets short shrift compared to the dovetail (its showy, and much more famous sibling). I’ve been cutting mortise and tenon joints using countless different methods since my very first days as a woodworker. And I’ve been teaching what I’ve learned (and continue to learn) for almost 20 years.

And then on May 19th through 23rd, I’ll be at the Port Townsend School of Woodworking, in Port Townsend, Washington (a spectacularly beautiful town on the Puget Sound) I’ll be teaching a class on building case pieces. The project is a small nightstand, but the fundamental construction techniques apply to all kinds of traditionally joined casework. We’ll cover frame and panel construction, mortise and tenon joinery, and half-blind dovetails; along with gluing up and smoothing panels, ship-lapped backs, and more. This is an ambitious project, but it all comes together beautifully, with lots of methods that make the seemingly difficult much easier.

So what’s the hidden agenda? Throughout each of these classes, I’m secretly trying to make you a significantly better woodworker. I’ve been pretty focused over the past few years on what really makes a difference in a person’s woodworking abilities (leading to the publication of my book, The Foundations of Better Woodworking); stuff that doesn’t get a whole lot of play in your typical book or article. And I’ve found that this foundational stuff makes a huge difference for my students. I’m constantly looking out for little things that I can help you to understand what you’re doing better, and ways you can use your body more efficiently and accurately to get the work done.

And don’t miss the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event taking place in my shop this coming weekend (April 11th 10 am – 6 pm, and April 12th, 10 am – 5 pm).

New English Workshop

British flagI’m excited to announce that I”ll be teaching at the New English Workshop in March of 2015. I had met Paul Mayon (one of the founders of this new British woodworking school) at Handworks last May, and Paul recently invited me to come over to teach. In my excitement, I somehow promised I would come up with a new stool design for the class; I’ll write a bit about that process next time.

Paul has put up a couple of great blog posts on the New English Workshop website. The most recent of these relates his reaction to our recent, wide-ranging phone call, and continues with a bit of a review of my book, The Foundations of Better Woodworking (Paul also gave the book a great review in the British magazine, Furniture & Cabinetmaking). The earlier post is a little harder to characterize (Charles Bronson? I’m cool with that). You’ll just have to scroll down to see.

Talking about chairs….

This past fall the folks at Grainger stopped by to film a short video for their “Everyday Heroes” series. I had a lot of fun talking about my work with them, but we concentrated on my rocking chair. Don’t worry… no promotional stuff; just some talk about chairs.

30 years!

Toccata Chair from J. Miller Handcrafted FurnitureIt’s hard to wrap my head around the fact that I started building furniture full-time 30 years ago.

But in another sense, it feels just about right. There’s great confidence and satisfaction at having come so far from my early efforts. And the past few years have been particularly satisfying and full of exciting changes.

The recession certainly had an impact on my furniture orders, but the writing and teaching portions of my career have grown dramatically. I have been teaching at most of the country’s top woodworking schools and have increased my workshop offerings at my shop here in Chicago as well. I wrote a new book (my fourth), The Foundations of Better Woodworking, and released a companion video as well. I’ve recently written more than a dozen articles for major woodworking magazines, including a cover article for Fine Woodworking.

This change in the balance of my work has also given me a little more time to develop new designs, and these efforts has been very fruitful. My new rocking chair and the Toccata Chair (above) are both from this period. Lots of other exciting ideas are percolating along in various stages of development.

I’ve made major changes to the shop as well, most notably with the construction of four terrific new workbenches that help me in my work and provide better work stations for students in my classes. I’ve also added and upgraded some of my other equipment, which has improved shop capabilities, speed, and safety.

On a personal level, the kids are now both off in college. What might have been a tough transition (for us, the parents) has been made easier by their delight in being on their own, and our delight at having them out on their own.

So many thanks to my family, friends, customers and students for 30 years of support!

Difficult tenon shoulders made easier

The Tenoning Frame and Armchairmaker's Saw

The Tenoning Frame and Armchairmaker’s Saw

The tenoning frame and armchair maker’s saw (see my article in the February 2014 Popular Woodworking magazine) are great for cutting ordinary tenon shoulders. But these tools are also perfect for cutting tenon shoulders on curved parts, and equally good at cutting angled shoulders on straight parts. In fact, the only real difference in any of these cases is in the set-up of the part in the tenoning frame.

Setting up the workpiece in the Tenoning Frame with the spacer block and scribing disk

Setting up the workpiece in the Tenoning Frame with the spacer block and scribing disk

Straight parts and right-angled shoulders are easy; put the part in the jig against a square registration fence and align the shoulder with the layout guide. I usually do this not just by eye, but by feeling for the scribing disk registering in the scribed shoulder line.

With angled parts, you can do exactly the same thing if you have a wedge to help you set the angle. Just place your wedge between the workpiece and the side of the tenoning frame and slide the workpiece up or down until the scribed line registers with the disk on the spacer block. Note that you can orient your workpiece so that either the wide face or the narrower edge is clamped in the jig, depending on which way you need to angle the shoulders.

Using a wedge to set the shoulder angle

Using a wedge to set the shoulder angle

You could do the same thing with curved parts by making a making up a curved positioning jig to match the curved part. But you could also try a different approach that I have found works faster. Replace the scribing disk on your spacer block with a spokeshave blade (or any other small blade with one flat side) mounted flat side down. Better yet, just screw the blade to the opposite edge of the spacer block. Using this to register the scribed line, it will be easier to line up your scribed shoulder line perfectly level in the tenoning frame. The blade works

The spacer block with a spokeshave blade

The spacer block with a spokeshave blade

with angled shoulders, or even straight ones, but I find that with these, it’s easier to work as I suggested above, using either a square fence or a wedge in combination with the scribing disk.

It works well to leave the workpiece in the tenoning frame to cut the cheeks of the tenon as well. It will be well positioned for this work, and there’s no need for any additional set up.

The set-up for cutting the shoulder on a curved part

The set-up for cutting the shoulder on a curved part

Another way to angle the tenon shoulders

You can also set up to angle the shoulders this way









I’ve added a drawing for the simpler version of the tenoning frame. This one is best used with a flush trim saw held with the side of the saw against the top of the jig.Drawing of alternative jig